Redpoint Nutrition

Conversion Phase Workouts

This phase brings together all the workouts you've done and converts your newly acquired endurance, power-endurance and maximum strength gains into climbing-specific fitness. Conversion training schedules are geared toward the specific type of peak for which you trained (i.e., P-E, MxS, et cetera).

IMPORTANT! Regardless of the peak for which you're training, be sure to complete the Taper Week at the bottom of this page. The Taper week is intended to allow your body to recover from the training you've done over the past weeks in order to be fresh and ready to perform on your trip.

MxS peak:

For the conversion phase, tactical days should be hard days of trying to complete hard boulder problems. Try as if you were already in Hueco. (I know it’s a stretch, but redpointing a project is all about being able to focus and give it your all. This ability doesn’t come without practice.)

Week 1:

Week 2:

PE peak:

For the conversion phase, tactical days should be hard days of trying to redpoint hard routes. Try as if you were already in Rifle.

Week 1:

Week 2:

E peak:

For the conversion phase, tactical days should be hard days of trying to redpoint hard routes. Try as if you were already in Maple Canyon.

Week 1:

Week 2:

Taper Week:

This is the final week of every the training plan. Example of a taper week: