This is the eigth part of a twelve-part training series written exclusively for Redpoint Nutrition by professional climber, Certified Personal Trainer and Nationally Accredited US Climbing Coach, Brandi Proffitt. Please visit the list of topics in the Women's Climbing Series and the date's they'll be posted here. Don't want to miss out on future posts? Send us an email and let us know you'd like to be added to the Women's Climbing Series email list. We'll ping you everytime a new post is added!
After you build some base strength in your off-the-wall strength workouts, it can be beneficial to incorporate some strength-specific work on the wall. I recommend waiting on this until you feel that you are making gains from the strength training, and have adapted to the additional stress on the body. In other words, don't start adding new things to your program until you feel that you're getting good recovery between training days.
When you're ready, try adding some power training to your "power" days, if you've designated specific days as such. I generally put some of these exercises to use during or at the end of a bouldering session, but they can also be done after climbing routes; just don't incorporate them into a long endurance session. It's really difficult for your body to recruit the kind of power you'll need to do these with good form if you're exhausted from the deep impact of endurance training.
System Training: I can honestly say that some of my biggest gains in climbing ability came from consistent system wall training. There is a lot written about systemized training for climbing, so rather than re-hash it I'll refer you to http://usa.moonclimbing.com/systems-training-c-334_355.html. I find that this is a simple, straightforward explanation of system training as it was originally used. You'll notice that this site discourages the use of matching hands or feet or using drop-knees, which I actually agree with when it comes to systems work. I fully advocate every type of technique you can think of when climbing, but when working on a system wall your biggest gains will come from completing moves using only one foot on the wall and in a turned-out position (hip externally rotated, inside edge of your shoe on the foothold). This is typically our weakest position, which is why we do employ such techniques as backsteps and drop-knees - because they are often more efficient. So to work our naturally least powerful position, stay turned out, use one foot, and choose the types of holds that need the most work for you.
If you don't have access to a system wall, read through the link I noted above and try to mimic those types of movement on a slightly overhanging wall in your gym. Even if the moves aren't perfectly systemized, you will see benefits from using the concepts associated with system training. I've found that system training 1-2x per week for 20-30 minutes can yield significant results.
Lock-off Drills: Climb boulder problems (or short routes) locking off every move. By "locking off" I mean reach for your next hold and "hover" your hand over it for 2-5 seconds before grabbing it. This will force you to find a stable body position that enables the move to be static. It will get you thinking about your technique if you often find yourself swinging, barn-dooring and generally experiencing too much unnecessary movement while climbing. It will also build considerable power when you take away the option of being dynamic. The harder you climb, the more frequently you're likely to find yourself using deadpoints and dynamic movement to get through a move. Of course being dynamic is often the most efficient way to complete a move; I'm not suggesting that it is poor form. But I know you will surprise yourself when you find the strength to lock off a hard move that you normally need to do dynamically. Pick problems that are challenging for you, but which you can usually complete.
Cut Loose Drills: "Cutting loose" refers to the act of taking both feet off the wall at once. Sometimes this is necessary to complete a move, or to get your feet to the next holds, and sometimes it is completely unintended, leaving you struggling to find those next holds. Many climbers simply freak out when their feet fly off, feeling weak and disoriented. This is where whole body power comes into play. And what better way to train for this situation than to throw yourself right into it? To perform the drill, try using the same boulder problems you chose for your lock-off drill. Complete each hand move as you would when climbing normally, but cut both feet loose between hand moves. Kick your feet back to the wall, and then move them if necessary before completing the next hand move.
4x4 Drills: "4x4" refers to the completion of 4 problems, 4 times. Again choose problems that are challenging for you but which you know you can complete most of the time. There are a couple ways to do 4x4s; one way that I like is to complete problem A 4 times with very little rest between attempts, then take 2 or 3 minutes off, move on to completing problem B 4 times, and so on. Training repetition on powerful boulder problems in this way will serve as good power endurance training, and also allow you to find more efficient ways of climbing the same moves as you get tired. You can add a timed element to this format, for example give yourself 4 minutes to complete problem A 4 times, then rest 4 minutes before moving on. Try a 3x3 format for slightly less volume.
Sample Workout: After a long warm-up, or near the end of a climbing session (save some juice for this) try this combination of the above:
1. Climb 3 problems with lock-offs.
2. Climb the same 3 problems cutting loose between moves.
3. Train on the system wall (or systemized movement) for 15-20 minutes.
You can also try doing a set of 4x4s, followed by 15-20 minutes of system training.
Always remember to keep the level of difficulty in a range that you can complete, or almost complete, with effort. If it's too easy, it will count as volume, but not yield the strength gains you're looking for. If it's too intense, your joints and muscles will certainly tell you. Listen to your body and push it as hard as it's willing to go, and not beyond! You may be surprised at how hard you can work when you have some specific training goals to achieve!
Please visit redpoint.com often, and be sure to check back on 3/3/10 for "Flexibility"! Also, if you have any specific questions or concerns about any of my articles or advice, please feel free to contact me through either of my websites: www.brandiproffitt.com or brandiproffittfitness.com. Happy climbing!